Points are prepaid interest. Each point is equal to 1 percent of
the loan amount or $1,500 on a $150,000 loan, for example.
Bankers, mortgage lenders, builders, home sellers, or anyone
else can pay points so that they can offer lower interest rates
and be more competitive.
For instance, a car dealer may advertise a lower than market
interest rate on a new car model, which means, as you probably
guessed, that the dealer has made an agreement with the bank and
paid points to get a lower rate. A new homebuilder does the same
thing to get a lower rate on mortgages they advertise on banners
and flyers at their home site. As a home seller you can do the
same by offering to pay points on a buyer's behalf so that
they'll buy your home.
The bottom line is that points cost you money. Sometimes for
good, other times not. If you understand points, you can work
with them for your advantage and not get taken in.
How Points and Buy-Downs Work
When you call a mortgage banker about a home loan, it's likely
the lender will reel off a whole smorgasbord of interest rates.
In addition to that day's interest rate (par), the lender will
also give you the choice of several lower rates if you're
willing to pay points. In this case, loan discount points are
paid to the lender at closing to buy down the cur-rent interest
rate, a rate that-along with the points-can change from day to
day as the money markets fluctuate.
As mentioned, a point is one percent of the loan amount and is
interest paid up front to increase the investor's yield or
profit on the loan. For example, if you call a mortgage lender
for the current rate, you might get 6.0 percent at par and 5.75
percent if you pay two points. On a $100,000 loan, this would
add $2,000 to your closing costs to buy the interest down .25 of
one percent for the life of the loan.
Points are normally charged by mortgage lenders to increase
their up-front profit and offset the uncertainty of a loan that
would normally go 15-30 years. However, since few mortgages go
full term any-more because of sale or refinance, points can be
an attractive incentive for investors to invest in mortgages.
As a rule-of-thumb, each point is approximately equal to 118
percent (.125) when buying down the interest on a 20 to 30 year
mortgage. However, in a competitive market, if you shop around,
it's possible to find discounts as high as .25 percent per
point. Plus, how long you want to lock in the rate is also an
important factor. A 30-day lock will have better terms than a
60-day one.
You usually have two choices when you begin the loan process:
You can lock in the interest rate and points for thirty to sixty
days. Or you can "float" and take whatever the market is the day
you close. If you like to gamble and the rates are falling, this
can be a good way to go. But, if you don't want to take the
chance of getting caught by an upward spurt in interest rates,
then locking the rate is the safest bet.
When a builder or seller offers to pay the bank a point or more
to lower your interest rate, it's called a buy-down. Often
builders increase the price of the home so that they can
advertise an attractive interest rate. As a consumer, it's a
good idea to ask the lender or salesperson how many points are
built into the price of financing when the interest quote is
lower than the current rate. There's no "free lunch" in
mortgages. If you find an interest rate less than the current
rate, someone is picking up the difference, and that's usually
you.
Buy-down programs are varied and limited only by the lender's
imagination. In addition to permanent buy-downs, there are
three-two-one and two-one programs. With these temporary
buy-downs, the interest rate is typically 3 percent less the
first year, 2 percent less the second year, and 1% percent less
the third year.
After the third year, the interest rate levels off for the
remainder of the loan. And the two-one buy-down has only two
years of reductions before it levels off.
Temporary buy-downs can be a two-edged sword. If the bank
qualifies you on the first- or second-year rate, you'll be able
to buy more home with the hope that your income will go up in
the next few years to cover the increasing payments. A
miscalculation of your future income or being overly optimistic
can mean an uncomfortable payment increase each year for two or
three years.
On the positive side, you can often qualify for more house using
a buy-down. In a slow market sellers may be willing to pay a few
points to help you buy their house if your qualifying ratios are
tight.
Is Paying Points Worth It?
It all depends on how long you're going to be in the house.
Usually, if you plan on staying four or more years, then points
can save you money. To determine how many months until you break
even, sub-tract the payment if you buy down the rate from the
payment if you don't buy it down and divide by 12.
For example, on a $100,000 loan at 6 percent for 30 years, the
payment is $599.55. But, if you pay $2,000 and buy the rate down
to 5.75 percent, the payment is $583.57, a difference of $15.98
a month. (Incidentally, if you had subtracted the $2,000 and
gone with a $98,000 loan instead, the payment would be $587.56,
about $3 more.) Dividing the $15.98 monthly savings into the
$2,000 point cost shows that it wi11 be about 125 months before
you break even and start saving $15.98 a month. This is hardly a
barn-burner investment, but if you keep the home for the full 30
years, the savings will add up. However, most financial advisers
don't recommend going beyond 36-48 months to recoup your point
costs.
It's interesting to note that in the above example, if the
interest rate were 9 percent, buying the rate down to 8.75
percent would result in a 112-month breakeven. The higher the
interest rates goes, the more attractive points become in saving
you mortgage interest.
The bottom line is that points are usually not a good investment
as you can see from the numbers in the above example. However,
if points are part of a seller or builder concession, it's
better to take the buy-down than to subtract the concession from
the sales price.
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